Craft Meets Cool
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How Indian Labels Are Remixing Traditional Techniques with Streetwear Style
A new wave of Indian fashion designers is rewriting the rules of streetwear — by anchoring it in centuries-old heritage crafts. From hand-painted Pattachitra and shibori dyeing to intricate aari embroidery, labels across India are pushing the boundaries of contemporary style while honouring deeply rooted artisanal traditions.Take Kunsquad, for instance — a brand co-founded in 2021 by designer Pallabi Sarangi along with Priyabrata Mohapatra and Abhishek Deo. With backgrounds in both fashion and business, the trio came together with a shared mission: to create garments that are expressive, experimental, and personal. “It started with scribbles on tissue paper,” says Pallabi, now 28. “And slowly evolved into moodboards, samples, and eventually full-fledged collections.”Their latest drop is a striking ode to Odisha’s ancient storytelling tradition — Pattachitra. A deeply intricate painting style typically seen on scrolls and temple walls, it has been reimagined into gender-fluid silhouettes like oversized T-shirts, corset tops, and relaxed trousers. “It’s a tribute to where we come from, but also a rebellion against how tradition is boxed in,” says Pallabi.Rather than digitising the designs, the team took the long road — visiting Raghurajpur, a heritage village near Puri known for keeping Pattachitra alive. There, they collaborated directly with artists to hand-paint every garment. Crafted from fabrics like khadi, kala cotton, denim, and soft jersey — all chosen for their ability to hold detailed brushstrokes — the pieces speak of a process rooted in respect and rigour. “Some fabrics rejected the paint. Some designs didn’t translate well. It was intense,” Pallabi admits. “But we stayed committed to the soul of the craft.”
Elsewhere, Zero Tolerance by Prakhar Rao Chandel is carving out its own path — blending storytelling, activism, and street culture with Indian textiles. A journalism graduate turned designer, Prakhar launched the label in 2020, with childhood friend Zeeshan Akhtar joining as co-founder. “I started with just stories to tell and a passion for identity,” Prakhar recalls.After early graphic-heavy collections like Proud Browns and Wild on the Streets, he dug deeper — travelling to meet artisans, NGOs, and textile engineers to build a supply chain grounded in indigenous practices. The turning point came with Homecoming, a collection that featured handwoven and handspun fabrics paired with traditional embroidery. “It was where my storytelling finally met the soil,” he says.
His most recent collection Karm — showcased at London Fashion Week in 2024 — is a meditation on energy and imprint. Featuring 11 pieces including functional suits, co-ord sets, and jorts, the line uses hand-spun cotton, aari and zardozi embroidery, and natural dyes. “Every stitch carries the karma and touch of the artisan,” says Prakhar.
Now gearing up for his SS’25 collection Virasat, Prakhar is collaborating with veteran block printer Hari Shankar Pandey. The collection draws from century-old printing blocks sourced from a royal archive in Pratapgarh and will feature garments like skirts, dresses, and shackets — breathing new life into regal design heritage.Meanwhile, Kardo — founded in 2013 by 54-year-old fashion veteran Rikki Kher — has long stood as a counter to fast fashion. “I was making clothes for myself and realised there was a space for something slower, more thoughtful,” says Rikki. The brand’s early collections combined tailoring with traditional processes — Jodhpuri suits in cotton French Terry, khadi shirts, handloom denim — and laid the foundation for a now expansive craft-focused label.
Their recent drops Like Water and Sadda Vedha are case studies in craftsmanship. The former saw Kardo collaborate with 36 artisans across 18 regions, using 32 craft techniques like Gond painting, Rabari appliqué, shibori dyeing, and block printing. The latter is a poetic return to the idea of the aangan — the courtyard as a quiet site of memory and kinship. Featuring khadi, ari, phulkari, and ikat embroidery, the garments echo warmth and domestic intimacy.Together, these brands represent a movement — one that’s not only giving Indian heritage crafts a new visual vocabulary but also ensuring the survival and celebration of India’s artisanal legacy in a world hurtling toward the future. Through denim, corsets, suits, and streetwear silhouettes, they are making a powerful case: that tradition doesn’t need to be frozen in time — it just needs the right canvas.
